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Post by Browning35 on Sept 28, 2014 21:06:16 GMT
Well when I said ' Shitload' you took that term to heart. That's a lot of material. Damn. Since you were the one behind the knife and pics or video will never be able to totally capture effort how do you think it did in comparison with other knives as far as how much effort you had to use? Easier? So better than factory blades? Re-sharpening knives back to what they came out of the box with has always been a weak spot of mine. Using the sand paper and mousepad trick I can usually get it back to almost where it was, but not quite as sharp as it was before. Over time it also usually turns it into a convex-type edge. Any issue with getting it back to where it was before?
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Post by homerj on Sept 29, 2014 0:22:42 GMT
Thanks RTF! That belt had it coming, it broke less than a week after getting it, I threw it on the floor and the cinching post on the belt buckle snapped off, made out of cheap chicom potmetal.
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Post by homerj on Sept 29, 2014 1:04:08 GMT
Browning, I just did a comparison with some scraps big enough to still cut on with my BK2, Mora, and CS Trailmaster.
The mora slices through the belt way more effortlessly than any of the knives but I was surprised at how poorly the BK2 and Trailmaster cut. The BK2 bit through the first bit of nylon ok but as soon as it came into contact with the plastic spine of the belt it took way more effort than the Warfighter to cut through and the end was a ragged cut. My BK2 came out of the box pretty dull and I put a convex edge on it with my Work Sharp at around 15-20 degrees cant remember which. It cuts, chops, and shaves wood very well but it even was noticeably slow going through cardboard. I think it is either the convex edge or the thickness.
The Trailmaster is a full flat grind with near factory edge and it didn't slice through the cardboard or belt as easily as the warfighter, I think there may be something to the edge thickness here, this blade excels at chopping, batoning, and woodcraft but I was surprised that it didn't cut through the belt, cardboard, or duffel bag strap as well as a Warfighter I just beat on, out of the box the Trailmaster had one of the sharpest factory edges I have had.
I think the Warfighter is a good balance in blade thickness but the edge retention is probably what makes it such an all around great knife. The heat treat is a triple quench and triple anneal which I think is why it has such a great edge. When I re-sharpened the blade on my lansky guide rod system I was surprised that the angle he put on the blade is 30 degrees which is unusual for my blades. Most are around 20 degrees and this still outcuts everything I have as an allaround knife.
I am crap at re-sharpening as well but I couldn't bring myself to put a convex edge on this with my Work Sharp and decided to keep the edge and try to re-sharpen by hand. I had good luck with my lansky guide rod system for once I was able to find the edge easily and got it back to shaving sharp. I dont think I brought it back to as sharp as it came but pretty close. With some more work I probably could.
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Post by homerj on Dec 16, 2014 3:51:17 GMT
I picked up another Benghazi Warfighter to give my dad for Christmas...but it is even more bad ass than mine so I am torn between keeping it and giving him a card.. It is a little longer and wider and looks even meaner. I hope he gives me clothes or something lame so I won't feel bad if I keep it lol.
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Post by misterdark on Dec 22, 2014 3:19:17 GMT
Okay, I just bought a CS Talwar 4" folder with full serrated blade. I've been looking for a new folder for awhile because my beloved Spyderco Native III doesn't have a pocket opening assist. The Talwar has this feature and is 1.25" longer. I've had good luck with CS products so I'll post a review once it arrives. Quick review on the Native. Excellent knife that I've used as a daily carry for over 10 years. I've polished it yearly and looks great after all the use I've put it through. I feel it's well worth the money. +1 for Spyderco. I have had a dragonfly on my keychain for 6 years, it is rock solid, and the steel holds an edge well. Easy resharpening, at least with a dremil tool... I'll try to get some of my other sharps together for a family portrait.
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Post by Browning35 on Jan 5, 2015 22:22:33 GMT
Got a Zero Tolerance Tactical Response Knife for XMas. Well, an Amazon gift certificate anyway and this is part of what that turned into. Thing is ginormous. Pretty much a fixed blade in folding format, real sturdy. Due to it's size and lack of assisted opening (it's a manual flipper) it isn't very quick to deploy. Neither was my Al Mar SERE 2000 and now that's super slick. So hopefully this will be the same way.
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Post by kutter0311 on Nov 7, 2015 14:11:03 GMT
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Post by red on Nov 7, 2015 14:26:02 GMT
I have this one as well ( Ken Onion Leek (Kershaw) in s/s plain edge ). One problem i have with it is the handles are smooth/slick in my hands sometimes. I go to open or close it one handed and it will slide and sometimes i drop it. Been thinking if getting super thin kydex and make handle scales to put on the knife. Textured side out to give me some grip on it.
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Post by kutter0311 on Nov 26, 2015 0:43:19 GMT
You could just rough up the stainless with course sandpaper, or stipple it
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Post by Gingerbread Man on Nov 30, 2015 12:42:46 GMT
I have that Kershaw knife too, zero failures.
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Post by homerj on Dec 7, 2015 5:25:38 GMT
Skateboard tape works well too. I used to have a cold steel code 4 that was way too thin and slick for me. It holds pretty well.
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